Virukeskus
Foodhall
At Viru Keskys, the impact of the fashion industry’s green transition on Estonian consumers was discussed.
New European Union regulations in the textile sector are reshaping the current fashion industry and declaring war on fast fashion. Experts noted that Estonia is not yet ready for a sustainable fashion transition, and these new regulations will also affect the shopping habits of consumers here, as highlighted during the Smart Consumption Day organized by Viru Keskus and the Estonian Fashion Festival (EFF).
On September 26th, Estonia’s leading designers, entrepreneurs, researchers, and sustainability advocates gathered at the Viru Keskus to share thoughts on the future of the fashion world. Next year, new regulations will come into effect in the European Union aimed at making Europeans’ clothing more durable, repairable, and recyclable while putting an end to overproduction and overconsumption in the fashion industry. The first related regulations in Estonia will come into force at the beginning of 2025, making the sorting of textiles by type mandatory.
Panelists shared their thoughts and experiences on the impacts of the fashion industry, along with potential solutions, including Kerli Kant-Hvass (textile circular economy developer and consultant), Kaido Kukk (Vice President of UPM Kymmene), Tiia Plamus (Head of the Textile Technology Laboratory at TalTech and Associate Professor in Textile Technology), Cärol Ott (designer awarded the EFF 2024 Sustainable Fashion Award and advocate for upcycling fashion), Katrin Kuldma (founder and owner of her eponymous fashion house, and advocate for sustainable quality fashion), Nelli Pormeister (Sustainability Manager at Sportland Group), Kristel Martis (Marketing and Communications Director at Viru Center), Kaie Kaas-Ojavere (co-founder of the company KIUD and textile waste processor), Karin Kreek (designer of the Estonian fashion brand Woolish), Kerli Reinsberg (Retail Manager at the Uuskasutuskeskus), and Key Külaots (CEO of the Estonian Fashion Festival).
“The fashion industry’s footprint is very large, and the first legislative changes will come into effect in Estonia without the stakeholders being prepared for it. Therefore, we decided to take a closer look at this complex issue together on Smart Consumption Day. Consumers hold significant power through their everyday choices, and we shared practical tips with them, ranging from sorting textiles to extending the lifespan of their beloved garments. The latter is especially important, as all the experts who participated in the event were essentially on the same page— the only right way forward is to consume less but of higher quality, purchasing products that last and maintaining them. ‘Invest in your product and wear it’ could be the summary,” noted Kristel Martis, Marketing and Communications Director at Viru Keskus.
According to experts who participated in Smart Consumption Day, maintaining existing clothing could provide a partial solution to the two main issues facing the fashion industry— overproduction and overconsumption. Unfortunately, these concerns are accompanied by the widespread proliferation of fast and ultra-fast fashion, which has made clothing more accessible, thereby reducing both their quality and lifespan. New regulations therefore stipulate that clothing must be designed to be more durable, repairable, and better sortable in the future. Each EU country must also organize the separate collection of textile waste, and every clothing item sold in the EU will soon need a digital passport that allows tracking its footprint and comparing it with other products.
Tiia Plamus, Associate Professor at TalTech’s Institute of Materials and Environmental Technology, stated that the EU’s direction is correct, but adapting to the regulations will be a significant challenge. “The upcoming changes in the textile circular economy are long overdue and fundamentally right, but many EU countries are not well prepared for these changes. In Estonia, it would be possible to implement sorting and recycling technologies that are already known worldwide, but more innovative solutions are expensive and require high investment readiness from the state and companies,” said Plamus.
Experts also mentioned that every consumer can contribute to the textile waste collection by sorting reusable textiles separately from unsuitable ones and returning usable clothing and items through appropriate collection points or organizations. They noted that attitudes towards reuse have changed significantly in recent years, and thrift stores and resale platforms are increasingly valued. On Smart Consumption Day, the Uuskasutuskeskus collection cabinet was also opened at Viru Keskus, where individuals can now bring their clean and intact clothing for reuse. In addition to the Uuskasutus collection cabinet, old clothing can also be dropped off at ZARA, Massimo Dutti, the Women’s World at Tallinna Kaubamaja, and ARKET stores.
In terms of reuse and extending the lifespan of beloved garments, two exciting workshops at Smart Consumption Day showcased best practices. Fashion designer Cärol Ott, who holds the title of EFF’s Most Sustainable Designer, created completely new outfits for Aljona Eesmaa, Kitty Floreintine, and Marta Lotta Kuke, revaluing old garments through new redesign techniques. Designer Marta Konovalova, on the other hand, introduced interested participants to visible mending techniques. In addition to the designers, the tailoring studio Tubli Rätsep, located in Viru Keskus, presented its services, where garments can be altered or repaired, along with shoe impregnation services offered by both Sportland and Salamander stores.
To fashion enthusiasts, Cärol Ott presented her collection carlxott, along with New Life Studio and Woolish, which has won the hearts of customers for several years with its woolen knitwear designed and produced in Estonia. The latter brand’s display can also be found in the Women’s World at Kaubamaja.
In addition, fashion enthusiasts had the opportunity to view the fashion documentary film “Stracci,” which highlights the unique recycling model of the textile industry in Prato, where old wool garments are given new life as quality fabrics. Directed by Tommaso Santi, the film takes us to the heart of the circular economy, where hundreds of companies have been creating wealth from what others have discarded for decades.
The film narrates the darker side of the fashion industry— the enormous waste problems caused by fashion consumption in Africa. The largest landfill in Africa, located in Accra, Ghana, exemplifies how developing countries have become the destinations for textile waste from the Western world. However, the film also offers solutions and sheds light on the pioneering role of the Prato region in global recycling.
“Stracci” presents a challenge and an opportunity: sustainability is only possible through collective efforts. It is a glimpse into a future where the recycling of garments could be the answer to the biggest problems facing the fashion industry.
Photos by Reiko Kolatks.
