Virukeskus
Foodhall
Food journalist and gourmet Martin Hanson visited Viru Food Hall and discovered two new restaurants here.
In the list of weekly food spots for the autumn-winter season, two more excellent names can be added for the joy of the hungry: namely, at the beginning of August, two crafted style eateries with a sense of taste and gastronomic value opened just a few dozen meters apart – Han’s Street Food and Hop&Hen. Both are easily accessible from Viru Food Hall; despite their shared location, each “counter” offers an abundance to taste.
As a constantly hungry but picky eater, I seek places that can quickly provide both spiritual and mental nourishment at the slightest hint of another thought. One such place has been Han’s, offering Sichuan cuisine, located on Rävala Boulevard for many years, which has now relocated its dumplings, dan-dan noodles, Langzou ramen, and much more to the city center, as much as possible. It was a pleasant surprise to find another counter nearby that attracted me in a completely different way. Here, you can indulge in the city’s best crispy chicken as well as excellent local (and also imported) craft beer.
If you haven’t encountered the phenomenon of Han’s yet, now is absolutely the time. One could even say that this street food counter belongs to the same group as NuFace’s noodle houses and is among the only honest providers of Chinese gastronomic contributions in Tallinn. The reason lies in two main foundations: chefs of Chinese origin and experience, and a focused menu where each dish has a clear geographical origin, flavor register, and history.
Han’s Street Food is the importer of Langzou ramen: this hand-pulled wheat flour noodle soup with clear beef broth dates back to the end of the previous millennium when it became a popular dish because it’s easy to prepare, consists of few ingredients (if we forget about the marinated boiled eggs, spices, and herbs), and is comforting at any moment, in any temperature and mood. Langzou, available at the Viru Center, is one of those dishes that resonates when you’re sad or happy, separating or marrying, departing or arriving, crying or laughing. The delicious broth, creamy noodles, and flavorful beef help overcome any physical or mental distress.
But Han’s is much more than just a street food counter: quick hands assemble hundreds of fresh dumplings daily, and for those who don’t enjoy soupy noodles, there are also dan-dan noodles seasoned with sesame oil and soy sauce, accompanied by Chinese five-spice minced pork, peanuts, and green onions. What else? Exactly … what more? For example, boba tea, which has not waned in global popularity and nicely complements a richer, more comforting noodle dish.
The stylish and colorful restaurant design leading directly to the charming Chinatown is a very pleasant place for escaping on dark evenings. If nothing else interests you, you can always enjoy good tea and watch the rushing people on the street. By the way, you can also buy one of the world’s best chili oils from the counter (jar for €7.50), which can be drizzled over everything from breakfast eggs and chicken soup to apple slices.
If you’re not completely full yet, the chefs serving about 40 steps into the food street offer one of the city’s best crispy chickens, if not the best (don’t be surprised, they are dressed as burgers for easier eating, in four varieties). And of course, six different types of “hot” chicken wings, both less and more spicy. You can also get potatoes and salad, naturally with plenty of chicken, because… (read the name of the eatery again!).
For those who remember, this place used to be home to a Danish-rooted beer brand bar for many years, which has now been renamed more aptly to Hop&Hen (translated as Hops&Chicken). The reason being that while it originally started as a beer bar serving crispy chicken to satisfy a hop-induced hunger, it became famous among the locals for the quality of its food offerings. Thus, it made more sense to present it as a place where crispy chicken is complemented by beer as a seasoning or vice versa. Depends on how you see it…
Even though the crispy fried chicken has reached a level under the head chef that can occasionally deceive even the most committed vegan, the counter features 16 taps pouring both local and imported brews. In general, almost all the currently popular styles are covered, including Hazy IPAs, smoothie beers, and various types of wheat beers. The number of taps might be intimidating, but that’s not all… there are even more beverages in the fridge: for instance, Hop&Hen boasts a selection of non-alcoholic beers that is as intriguing and adventurous as the other offerings.
P.S.! I saved the best for last: if you’re feeling a bit adventurous (and the extra spices ordered at Han’s haven’t quite done the trick), you can also challenge yourself at Hop&Hen to eat chicken wings made with one of the world’s hottest chilies, the Carolina Reaper. There’s even a “Best of” board where those who have eaten the most “mouth-breaking” wings are recorded. You won’t find those wings on the menu, but with the right deal with the chef, you can always get them!
The article was published in the magazine Gurmaan, authored by Martin Hanson. Photos by Marek Metslaid.
